At this point in our
Liverpool journey we deviated from Dr William Moss's guide book and walked over to Rodney Street: an area filled with fine Regency terraces. This and the surrounding streets can certainly compete with areas of Bath and Dublin for beauty and authenticity, and it's amazing that they aren't as well known. Here we took a short detour to see St Andrew's Presbyterian Church (below), built in 1823 and once described as 'an ornament to the town'.
Above: St.Andrews, Scotch Kirk, Rodney Street, engraved by Henry Jorden after a picture by G & C Pyne, published in Lancashire Illustrated, 1831.
Source:
Ancestry Images.
Henry Jorden shows it in its prime, but below is my picture of its current dilapidated state. Most of it has been shored up to avoid accidents (you can see the left tower has been removed entirely). At some point it was gutted by fire, and gives off a sad atmosphere.
As we were peering through the fence at the graveyard, I spotted this strange pyramid tomb (below).
I did wonder if it was Masonic, but it was only later I discovered it's the tomb of William Mackenzie: a wealthy Victorian railway engineer and Liverpool's most notorious gambler. As the story goes, Mackenzie - hoping to win at poker - had promised his soul to the devil. He won the game, but falling ill shortly afterwards, began to fear that the devil would demand his part of the bargain. So with his winnings he constructed this tomb, leaving instructions that his card table and chair should be placed inside. He's supposed to be interred seated at the table holding the winning cards, thus cheating the devil out of his Faustian pact (presumably because his body was not in the ground). Mackenzie is said to haunt Rodney Street, so that explains the eerie, sad feel of the place!
Photographs © Memoirs of the Celebrated Mrs Woffington.Coming next... Liverpool's lost pleasure garden, and the end of our tour. Subscribe now!