Monday, 28 September 2009

A Viking 18th Century

Today I'm delighted to welcome guest blogger Richard Bratby, a freelance journalist who writes for, among other things, the Birmingham Post, the Lichfield Mercury, Metro newspaper and the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra's blog. He will be here today and tomorrow talking about an area of 18th-century history that may be new and surprising to many of us. His focus is on the work of Nobel Prize-winning Icelandic novelist Halldór Laxness (1902—1998) whose historical novel Iceland's Bell is an epic tale of a nation struggling for survival during the 18th century.


Iceland's Bell (Part 1)

If you love the 18th century, chances are you have a favourite historical novelist. It’s a boom area in literature – and an opportunity for readers to slip, for a few hours, into a world of classical terraces, elegant ballrooms, porticoed mansions and rolling parkland. But in the right hands, readers have shown themselves more than willing to move beyond Austen-esque Georgian England and into ever more exotic terrain. Rose Tremain’s 1999 Whitbread award-winner Music and Silence, for example, found a wide readership for a story set in the Royal court of 1630s Denmark.

So here’s a historical novel also set in part at the Danish royal court, covering (roughly) the period 1700-1730: the age of the Great Northern War. Epic in scope, it sweeps across nations and seas, a story of oppression, suffering and intrigue; of boisterous humour, deep poetry and star-crossed romance. It’s by a great novelist; in fact, a Nobel laureate. And yet it’s barely known in the English-speaking world. It’s called ĺslandsklukkan – Iceland’s Bell – and it’s by the Icelandic writer
Halldór Laxness.

To be fair, until recently you’d have had to have read it in Icelandic, or maybe German. Incredibly, Iceland’s Bell was only translated into English in 2003 (it was first published in 1945). Philip Roughton’s translation (which I’ve used throughout this post; with Icelandic letters such as đ [pronounced ‘th’] used about as consistently as Blogger allows me; apologies to Icelandic readers) has only now given this extraordinary novel to English-speakers. But the 18th century-loving community still seems to have been rather slow to seize on it.

Maybe that’s because Laxness is best-known as a literary modernist; the author of powerful social-realist novels like Independent People (1934) and visionary psyechedelia (Under The Glacier – 1968). You certainly wouldn’t guess from the cover of the Vintage edition that this was a historical novel.




Maybe it’s because of the notorious English-speaker’s allergy to literature in translation (though if you can handle Tolkien’s imaginary names and places, you should be able to cope with Laxness’ genuine Icelandic ones). And maybe it’s because when you open Iceland’s Bell, you enter an authentic, brilliantly realised 18th-century world that’s startlingly different from anything in Austen or Georgette Heyer.

How different? Well, here’s the oldest surviving building in the Icelandic capital, Reykjavík (below). It dates from 1762 – in other words, a good half-century later than the period chronicled in Iceland’s Bell.


At the start of the 18th century, Reykjavík simply didn’t exist as anything more than a tiny fishing settlement, and it doesn’t feature in Iceland’s Bell (for Laxness’ take on Reykjavík, try his enchanting coming-of-age novel The Fish Can Sing). But the fact that this was one of the biggest and most impressive residences in Iceland gives you some idea what to expect in the novel. True, it’s a story of noblemen, elegant ladies, country squires and great estates – but don’t picture Palladian mansions and jardins à l’anglaises. A couple of the locations featured in the novel survive today. Bessastađir, just outside modern Reykjavík, was the seat of the Danish regent, and it’s still the residence of the President of Iceland.



This is where Jón Hreggviđsson is imprisoned near the start of the novel, and although it was extensively rebuilt from the 1760s onwards, it’s still on the same site. Here’s how it looked at the start of the 19th century. Remember, in the period of Iceland’s Bell this was by some way the biggest and most impressive building in Iceland – and it wasn’t even as grand as the structures in this picture:

Bessastadir, c1834

Only slightly less imposing were the houses of the Danish Monopoly Merchants – the officials licensed by the Danish crown to control and manage all trade with its colony of Iceland. From 1602 to 1786 trade with Iceland was rigorously controlled by Denmark, and in the period of Iceland’s Bell all trade was forbidden except through licensed Merchants in designated monopoly ports. The result, unsurprisingly, was poverty and even famine. Most Icelanders were subsistence farmers or fishermen, living in turf-roofed cottages. (In the novel, Jón Hreggviđson is initially convicted as a “cord-thief”, and throughout Iceland’s Bell, a shortage of fishing-cord is reported as Iceland’s most urgent problem. Icelanders couldn’t even feed themselves without it). In such circumstances, the Monopoly Merchant’s houses were symbols of unimaginable power and wealth.

And when you look at the surviving examples – such as the Husiđ in the monopoly port of
Eyrarbakki (1765), today a museum – it’s impossible not to do a double-take. This is the very house where Squire Magnús of Braeđratunga passes out in the pigsty after selling his wife for a keg of brennivín, in Part 2 of Iceland’s Bell (Laxness stayed in Eyrarbakki to complete the novel). It’s about as grand as Georgian architecture got in Iceland. And it’s not exactly Blenheim Palace:



This is the world in which Laxness chose to set his great historical novel. Like many of his literary choices, it proved controversial amongst his fellow Icelanders. Laxness was at the height of his career; ten years later, in 1955, he’d be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. He worked on the book over the period 1942-45. On 17th June 1944, after seven centuries of foreign rule, Iceland finally achieved
independence from Denmark - though with the superpowers already positioning themselves for the Cold War to come, the young Republic’s future looked far from secure. National pride, and nationalist passions, were burning high. Now, at this historic moment, Iceland’s leading writer published a novel set in the most humiliating period of Iceland’s history.

Laxness makes his intentions clear from his very first page:

There was a time, it says in books, that the Icelandic people had only one national treasure: a bell. The bell hung fastened to the ridgepole at the gable-end of the courthouse at Thingvellir by Oxará. It was rung for court hearings and before executions, and was so ancient that no-one knew its true age any longer. The bell had been cracked for many years before this story begins, and the oldest folk thought they could remember it as having a clearer chime. All the same, the old folk still cherished it.

Thingvellir: photograph © Memoirs of the Celebrated Mrs Woffington.


Anyone who’s ever been on holiday to Iceland (and got further than the Blue Lagoon) will have visited Thingvellir – the breathtaking natural gorge where, for nearly a thousand years, the Icelandic Parliament, the Althingi met annually in the open air. Today it’s a World Heritage Site; a wooden church (dating from the 19th century) has replaced the 17th-century courthouse. The old bell, sent as a gift to Iceland by King Olaf of Norway in 1015, and known to Icelanders under colonial rule as “the nation’s sole possession”, really existed. And what happens next – like many of the events in Iceland’s Bell – really happened, too:

One year when the king decreed that the people of Iceland were to relinquish all of their brass and copper so that Copenhagen could be rebuilt following the war, men were sent to fetch the ancient bell at Thingvellir by Oxará.

The king’s hangman comes from Bessasađir with a work party of convicts, and the bell is cut down.

The pale emissary took a sledgehammer from a saddlebag, placed the ancient bell of Iceland on the doorstep before the courthouse, and gave the bell a blow…the bell broke in two along its crack.



Thingvellir church, early 19th century


The nation’s last remaining treasure has been hacked down and shattered. Laxness’ message could hardly be more clear. He hasn’t just set his novel in the darkest period in Icelandic history – he’s beginning his story at its absolute lowest point. But there’s worse to come. There’s a famine, and an epidemic. By the end of Iceland’s Bell, the island itself has been put up for sale by the king of Denmark – and even he can’t find a buyer.


Tomorrow - Part 2: A Hero, two lovers, and the Great Fire of Copenhagen.

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Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Lady Georgianna


The '18th-century party people', Lady Georgianna, are back with a new website and some dates in the Midlands.

If you don't know of them, they're a costumed trio (comprising singer, Allegra, harpsichordist Signora Storace, and Isabella Wrighten on cello) who blend popular songs of the period with light-hearted readings. Check out their Flickr stream for photos and above for the new video of Take Heed. The ladies make their own costumes (the famous 'cleavage-enhancing gowns') and they have a few tips for budding dresmakers on their site.

They're bringing their Ladies of Misrule programme (a risqué look at pleasure gardens) to St Columba’s Church, Moseley on October 24th and Lichfield Guildhall on December 6th, and they present a spooky insight into the first gothic novel, The Castle of Otranto, at St Columba’s Church on November 28th, for which the audience is encouraged to come in masks and costumes.

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Tuesday, 22 September 2009

Sunday, 20 September 2009

The Celebrations Continue...

The Johnson tercentenary celebrations are still in full swing here in Lichfield. Below are a couple of pictures I took yesterday: the first is Johnson's bust in the Birthplace Museum, decked with flowers, and the second is Johnson's statue in the Market Square which has a wreath placed on it each year to mark the birthday.




The Johnson Society's annual supper in Lichfield's Guildhall was a complete success last night, with the Bishop of Lichfield, the Rt Reverend Jonathan Gledhill, taking up the post of President. If you're interested I've written a blow-by-blow account of the evening for The Lichfield Blog, but there are some photographs of the event below. We all received a commemorative Johnson clay pipe (bottom) made especially for the occasion.






Photographs © Memoirs of the Celebrated Mrs Woffington.

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Friday, 18 September 2009

Happy Birthday Sam!


Well, today marks Dr Johnson's 300th birthday and to kick off a weekend of celebrations, tonight Lichfield was treated to a son et lumière by artists David Harper, Andy Mckeown and Peter Walker, projected onto the sides of Johnson's house.

We went down to the markeplace for about 7.15pm to find the projection underway (above) and the bell ringers of St Mary's in full swing. But then it was a quick walk over to Minster Pool to catch the official launch: a lantern parade by local children (below).






You can see the first part of the artwork above, which was a projection of Lichfield people talking about their favourite words from the dictionary; this then changed into an A to Z of Johnson's life (below), narrated by local actors and interspersed with dictionary definitions. It also included music from the Lichfield Cathedral Chamber Choir including the Hallelujah Chorus from Handel's Messiah. We talked to Johnsonians from America, Sweden, Norway, Australia and Bulgaria, all milling about in the crowd.


The Market Street side of the Johnson Birthplace Museum also came to life as Lichfield's own Dictionary of the English Language - you could go along to the tent opposite the front door and type your name and favourite word into the computer for it to be added to a live scrolling projection of words (needless to say, this quickly degenerated into 'add me as a friend on Facebook', but it was still fun to watch).

At 10pm there were fireworks over the Market Square and we joined some other members of the Johnson Society at the King's Head for some birthday cake, which was cut by Dr Nicholas Cambridge. Tomorrow, the Tercentenary supper...




Photographs © Memoirs of the Celebrated Mrs Woffington.

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Pleasure Gardens Revisited

If you can't make her event in London in November, there's another chance to catch the author Sarah Jane Downing talk about her book on English pleasure gardens on Tuesday September 29th at 4pm at the historic Lord Leycester Hospital in Warwick. After Downing's talk you can sample the 'famous Lord Leycester Hospital cream tea' and take a tour of the Master's garden, followed by a talk from Katherine Swift, author of The Morville Hours: The Story of a Garden, which delves into the history of The Dower House at Morville in Shropshire (£3.50 per event or £7.50 for both talks plus cream tea).

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Monday, 14 September 2009

Wordia


Dr Johnson would certainly have been interested in the site Wordia (pictured above) which invites people from all walks of life to think of a word that has special meaning to them, talk about it on video and have it uploaded into the 'visual dictionary'.

Tomorrow Dr Nicholas Cambridge - the Chairman of the Johnson Society of London and a former GP - will be talking about the word scrofula. You can leave comments on individual definitions or even link to uses of the word on Twitter (I'd venture to suggest that only Dr Johnson himself is liable to be tweeting about scrofula, but you never know).

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